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The following is not directed to the OP, but to the many who want software to take care of everything in their lives. ![]() Among those brewers/systems the thousand brewers may have another unknown number of differences in the totality of their techniques. One thing that I might add is, a thousand brewers may brew on a thousand systems that have some differences. Since I have been doing whirlpool additions for 4 years now and have scoped out what I think is the bitterness response from pure whirlpool additions, I have been able to (for my process and system only) correlate that bitterness perception to a temperature setting which gives me an estimate of the bitterness I expect from a given whirlpool hopping. In doing this you will use the timing of additions for actual hop adds, but the temperature of that addition will define what you think you should get for IBU from that addition and not the actual temperature of your system when you add the hops. ![]() Ignore the actual temperature settings and use the temperature setting for each whirlpool addition to define the utilization from your sensory response. ![]() So since I was not very clear in my first response, let me try again. Third, even if you could estimate based upon average temperature this would not suit some of the commercial brewers nor those people brewing on equipment which allows for temperature control (such as the Grainfather or Robobrew systems) of the whirlpool at a given temperature. Knowing that Brad usually keeps up on these studies, I am figuring that he drew the calculations from these studies to estimate the IBUs for whirlpool additions. Second, I don't know the exact formulation Brad used for the calculation of whirlpool hop contribution to IBU, but there are several papers out there on IBU contribution from whirlpool hopping which have been performed on commercial systems. There actually used to be a single data point within the software in your equipment profile where you can state the time it takes to drop in temperature from flame out to 85C (185F) in BeerSmith 2. I still miss the universal utilization feature, but I can make it work.įirst, the software has no idea of how long it takes you to drop in temperature from boiling to whatever endpoint you select. Since my process is conditional on the timing of additions and not the temperature, this works for me quite well. With the removal of the ability to assign a % utilization correction figure directly to whirlpool hop IBU calculations, I must use the temperature as the utilization rate for each addition and not as the designated temperature of the actual addition. On brew day, I record the actual temperatures which the hops were added to ensure that my cooling curve is still valid. I assign the temperatures according to my previous work to obtain the estimated IBU which corresponds to my perception of bitterness with that addition. I know the temperature related to that timing based upon previous recordings of temperature over time with cooling of my pot to ambient conditions (I brew indoors, so it makes it easier to track). Given this, I have changed my recipes as follows: I enter in the whirlpool hops as I would like them to be added based upon timing. ![]() All other whirlpool hop contributions stay the same. When I then change a subsequent whirlpool addition for 10 minutes at 170F to 15 minutes, only that IBU calculation changes. When I decrease the time down to 35 minutes, the IBU calculation is 7.7 IBU. Each addition is treated independently.įor instance, when I set my steep temperature for 45 minutes at 195F the program gives me an IBU value for that addition of 8.5 IBU. I have a fix in the works for this (will likely be build 2.2.12) but in the meantime you can try using "Change Documents Directory" to point your data directory to an existing directory that has no spaces or other special characters in the path.So, the way the model works is that it estimates utilization over the whole steep time at that temperature. The issue is that if the path to the BeerSmith data directory (not program directory) has a space or other special character in it, the preview window won't work (due to a URL encoding issue).įor example if I take a vanilla install to Documents/BeerSmith2 and move my Documents Directory to "Documents/BeerSmith Test" instead using Change Documents Directory command, now the preview panes will now show blank since it can't resolve the path with the space in it properly (at least on the Mac) Take a look at the full path to your "Documents/BeerSmith2" directory (or other directory if you have used "Change Documents Directory" to move BeerSmith somewhere else in the past - which is very likely the case). ![]() If I need to swap days or change things on the fly I can, because I have all of my trip details neatly organized in this document. It does take time to record plans in detail but it means I never miss out on something I want to see, I’m always at the most popular attractions at opening time to get good photos without crowds. Having an itinerary thoroughly planned out takes all the stress away so I can focus on enjoying the trip and taking tons of photos. I never come back from a trip and think, ‘I wish I’d gone there’ or ‘I wish I’d known about that’ or ‘shame that museum was closed that day’. I’m not a spontaneous traveller, I like to thoroughly research everything before I get there so once I’m there I don’t waste ANY time and see ALL of the things I want to see. I don’t want to turn my computer on of a morning before leaving the hotel, I want all the info I need for that day all on the 1 or 2 pages that I can take with me and then throw in the bin at the end of day instead of lugging around the entire itinerary everyday. – Paste screenshots of walking routes and maps that I’ve plotted shops, restaurants etc. confirm the tour 2 days from now (as some tour companies require you to reconfirm) – Entry cost so I have the right currency on hand – Opening hours for quick reference or if I need to change plans due to weather turn right at hotel, walk 3 blocks, turn left, the stationery shop is on the left – Directions – I go super detailed just in case my phone battery dies e.g. – Bus / train numbers, times and frequency – Separate the itinerary for each day by morning, afternoon and evening I use this document for recording things like: When I plan in detail I mean REALLY detailed. and a phone battery doesn’t last forever. Why paper? I don’t want to use my phone as I already rely on it for navigating with Google maps etc. I also wanted a way to be able to print my itinerary onto paper in a convenient format that I could take with me. I was dumping links to blog posts, YouTube videos and other helpful resources that I found in my spreadsheets making them cluttered. I also have travel planning spreadsheets that can be used in Microsoft Excel or Google Sheets for planning an overview, budgeting the trip and comparing things like flights, but I needed a way to plan all the details for each day in an organized manner. lf you’d like a copy of my travel planning document, click here WHY MICROSOFT WORD? I hope this gave you some ideas you can adept into your own travel planning system. Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more planner videos! To enlarge the screen of the video, click the square icon in the bottom right hand corner of the video (it will say ‘full screen’ when you hover your mouse over the icon). Travel Itinerary Planner for Microsoft Word How I print and assemble the pages after I’ve finished the itinerary.Travel planning I don’t do in Microsoft Word.I’ve filmed a video walkthrough as I can say a lot more (and faster) in a video than a blog post but I do have details in this post as well. But there is another step in my process I haven’t shared because it was still a work in process.Īfter more than 5 years of testing and tweaking a document I made in Microsoft Word while planning 8 trips (ranging from long weekends, to 10 day road trips, 1 month or longer overseas trips to multiple countries), I’ve finally perfected this template to keep everything neat and organized □ I previously shared how I organize my travel plans using Microsoft Excel ( see this post). I’ve been spending the past couple of months planning future trips I want to take. I may not be able to travel right now due to Coronavirus, but when the borders re-open, I’ll be ready. ![]()
![]() When the time comes to repaint a car, the task is more complex than just applying a new coat above the older paint job. Velcro & Heavy Duty Surface Conditioning Discs.Quick-Change Surface Conditioning Discs.Mirka Pneumatic Orbital Finishing Sanders.So the next time you start a project that requires sandpaper, you’ll know everything you need to know on the matter. It’s important to be mindful of the kind of grit you’re using when applying sandpaper to rust. For instance, a coarser grit would be ideal on large machinery, but a finer grit would be ideal on the outside of a car. With finer grits, you are less likely to scratch your metal, but it may take longer to remove the rust you’re trying to eliminate. Coarser grits will remove rust faster, but they are more likely to scratch up the materials they come into contact with. We discussed how different size grits need to be used on different surfaces in order to be effective. Hopefully, now you have a better understanding of what grit sandpaper you need in order to remove rust from metal successfully. Removing rust takes patience, so as long as you’re well informed on what grit size works best for you and take the time to carefully eliminate rust, you’ll be well on your way. While it may take longer to remove rust with finer grits, it will definitely be worth it, seeing how your metal will be rust and damage-free at the end of the day. While this is the only grit size that will allow you to successfully remove rust from more sensitive areas, it will take a little bit of elbow grease to remove the rust.Īs is stated earlier, coarser grits will have a much easier time removing rust than finer grits. This grit size is ideal for removing rust from the outside of your car, as it’s fine enough to not damage the metal surface or the paint. You most likely will not need a grit finer than this to remove rust, as anything else won’t be helpful. This sandpaper will also help remove scratches that were left behind up more coarse sandpaper grits. This is also a great size grit for light sanding and will be very helpful if you’re looking to remove a small build-up of rust that isn’t too severe. 320 to 400 GritĪ very fine grit size, this is ideal if you’re looking to tackle a small amount of rust. Using anything coarser than 180-220 grit on metal surfaces like furniture that you plan on repainting could seriously damage the paint as well as the metal itself. While it’s important to know that coarse sandpaper will remove rust faster, it could also damage your items. That’s why it’s so important to do your research when it comes to sandpaper grit sizes, as you don’t want to hurt your more sensitive materials. This finer grit size will not damage your metal surfaces the way other forms of sandpaper can. This size grit is appropriate for use on more sensitive metal surfaces, such as furniture and decor. Also great for removing rust as well as removing scratches left by coarse sandpaper. This size grit is much finer than the previous two we’ve discussed. It’s great for removing rust as well as preparing surfaces as a starting point for most projects. ![]() ![]() This size grit will remove rust successfully and quickly, but it’s recommended on larger materials such as metal appliances. This sandpaper is still not recommended on materials you don’t want potentially scratched or damaged, but it will remove your rust faster. Still a more coarse option, 100 to 150 grit is a medium grit size. This is why this kind of grit is not recommended for things like furniture and antiques, as it will not do more harm than good to surfaces you don’t want to be scratched up. 40 to 80 GritĤ0 to 80 grit is a more coarse sandpaper, and while it’s better at removing rust compared to finer sandpaper, it will leave more scratches.Ĥ0 to 80 grit is a good choice for removing rust from machinery like pipes, but it’s not ideal for furniture and antiques that you don’t want to be damaged or scratched.Ĥ0 to 80 grit is appropriate for heavy machinery because while it will be very successful in removing rust from these materials, the sandpaper may leave some surface damage that isn’t too visually pleasing. As is stated above, the grit you choose to use should depend on the materials you’re treating for rust, as well as how you’d like your materials to look after you’ve used your sandpaper.īelow we’ll explore some of the grit sandpapers available and the ideal surfaces you should be using them on. ![]() This is generally cheaper than building with a larger dimension of lumber. It is possible, however, to add pieces of wood onto the rafters to fur them out to allow for more insulation. So if your rafters are only 5 1/2" deep, that is all the space you have for insulation. Roof insulation for 1 1/2 story homes (a home where you have living space in the attic) is typically installed in the rafter spaces. In making your choice, consider how you will insulate your insulate your roof. ![]() Another option are 2 X 8 rafters spaced 24 inches o.c. The table states that 2 X 6 rafters spaced 16 inches on center (o.c) can span a maximum distance of 13 feet 5 inches. Looking through the center of the table, we can find a couple of options. ![]() Let's use this example and find a size of rafter that will work. So if your house is 26 feet wide and the roof ridge beam is centered on the house, you will need a rafter that can span 13 feet. The maximum spans in the table above are for the horizontal distance the rafter can span (NOT the diagonal distance or actual length of the rafter). This table is simply a sample and may not be valid for your region. Sample Maximum Spans (feet-inches) Douglas Fir or Larch, No.1 or No.2 with 31.3 psf of Snow Loading Let's look at the sample table below which shows maximum rafter spans for a snow load of 31.3 pounds per square foot (psf).įraming Table for Maximum Roof Rafter Spans If you live in a region that gets winter snowfall, contact your municipal building department to find out what maximum snow loads you need to design for.ĭepending on your region, you may need to design for a maximum snow load of anything between zero to 65 pounds per square foot (or roughly 0-3 kPa). All roof framing tables are organized by maximum snow load. In most regions, the first thing to consider before sizing the wood framing members for a roof is the maximum snow load that the roof will have to bear. Initially, we will discuss the framing of gable roofs so that we can learn the basics of how to size a roof rafter, beam or joist. Each rafter is in turn fastened to the top of the exterior structural walls.Īs we discussed in Exterior House Designs there are many different house roof types. Along the top center of the house there is a beam to which are attached the rafters. The image below shows a cross-section of our simple 12' X 13' house from the joist span tables section of this tutorial. Let's consider a basic gable wood roof framing design.
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